T(r)oy's Marbles
puerta del sol
Whenever we have visitors in Spain we always take them to the Puerta del Sol. We do this because Sol (as we call it) is unique in at least two respects:
First, Sol marks the geographic center (quite literally) of the Iberian peninsula, of which Spain occupies the bulk. In fact, there is a plaque embedded in the walkway in Sol that serves as a visual reminder of this. The plaque tells you that from that point the carreteras radiales (translation: “radial highways”) originate. They are six highways that “radiate” out from Madrid to connect the capital to the various corners of Spain. If Madrid is like a spider’s body, these highways are like its legs, or perhaps strings of silk, forming the web that Spaniards (and many others) call home. Now: if you are standing in Sol near this plaque, and if I am with you, I will call your attention to it and ask you to take a close look at it, because when you do so you can see those highways demarcated in thin gold lines on the green and red figure that signifies Spain on the plaque. And, if my friend Kelly Wills is with you, she will probably also point out to you that even the street numbering system in the capital itself is rooted in Sol: the numbers go up as you move away from Sol, and they go down as you move towards Sol. It’s quite amazing when you stop and think about it. To my knowledge, there is no other country in the world where you can stand in the heart of a truly world class city and at the same time say, “Here is the center of the nation.”
Second, Sol is a cultural center for Spain (in general) and for Madrid (in particular). It’s the great gathering point. Throughout the year at various holidays Sol will be transformed into Party Central. After Spain’s terrorist attack in March of 2003, it was a key venue for protesting the senseless violence. Commerce and government hold prominent places in this puerta. And, of course, Sol serves as an important transportation hub for the city.
So, it is no surprise that recently the government decided to expand Sol’s public transport capabilities. Some months ago, I was walking in Sol and noticed that they were tearing up a significant portion of the sidewalk and the street. Corrugated metal walls had been installed by the construction company to prevent pedestrians from entering into the work area, but curious persons like me could look between the cracks to see what was going on. Upon further investigation, I noticed a sign that said a Cercanias train stop was being installed at Sol. This was good news to my ears (or rather eyes), since, until that point, Sol simply provided a major Metro stop, but not a Cercanias stop. The Cercanias train system connects the city to the suburbs of Madrid, while the Metro system simply services the city itself. I was glad to hear that a Cercanias station was being installed soon, since this would make Sol more accessible to the distant ‘burb in which we were living.
But, of course, these things take time, especially in any given Southern European country, including Spain. Setting aside the general cultural attitude of mañana, there will always be other “complications” that arise to serve as delays to any project of this nature.
In this instance, the delay came in a rather surprising form, and that’s what really prompted this short piece of writing: They’ve unearthed a church from the 16th century right there in Puerta del Sol. That’s right: Look in Spain’s heart, and you’ll find belief buried, forgotten by those walking just above it. There, covered by centuries of dust and bustle, an ages-old faith lies dormant and sleeping.
Christianity, very much a part of Spain’s historic identity, has become a relic. To be sure, the antiquation of Spain’s faith has happened slowly, gradually, over countless years, but (let us make no mistake about it) faith has been buried alive by the general populace of the modern era.
And this is what has always mystified me about Spain: you cannot understand this country without understanding its Christian heritage, but at times it seems as if its people are perfectly content to lay God to rest.
On the other hand (and this is what excites me!): I believe there exists even today a glimmer of hope for the church in Spain. See: I’m convinced that faith is, in fact, there. We just need to do a little digging. And when we do, people everywhere will agree: God is a great discovery.
journal | Comments (6) | August 04, 2006
Comments
really? cool! do you have a link to an article about it? i've been in holland and didn't hear of this! is this recent?
Posted by: kelly Wills at August 4, 2006 01:44 PM
Your metaphor about buried faith in the centre of Spain could be turned on its head. You see, although Sol is, as you say, the zero reference point for radial roads, etc., it is NOT considered to be the centre of the Iberian Peninsular. Traditionally, Iberia's centre of gravity is located at El Cerro de los Ángeles - not the Los Angeles in California (!), but a hillock some 10 km. south of Madrid (i.e. Sol). On top of this small hill there is a 14th century hermitage dedicated to Nuestra Señora de los Ángeles (our Lady of Los Angeles). So, one could say that at the centre of Iberia established religion is still very much in full view.
Also on top of the 'cerro' there was a statue erected by the Spanish king Alfonso XIII in 1919, called Monumento al Corazón Sagrado de Jesús. This huge monument, complete with a 9 m. high statue of Christ, was built with the purpose of formally consecrating the nation to the Sacred Heart of Jesus. During the Spanish Civil War, in 1936, the monument was blown up by the Republican forces and reduced to ruins. However, after the war, in 1944, a replica of the original monument was built - and it continues to stand to this day. Interestingly, the figure is of Christ with open arms, inviting all to come to him.
So..., the metaphor could be extended. E.g. the spiritual battle at the heart of the nation? Organised religion? Iconoclasts? Or the true spiritual nature of Christ's invitation and welcome?
Posted by: David at August 4, 2006 02:47 PM
Wow, thanks for that clarification, David! Most interesting, indeed...
Your friend,
Troy
Posted by: Troy at August 4, 2006 06:33 PM
Kelly,
I did a search on Google in hopes of directing you to an article about it, but had no luck. I'll keep trying and let you know when I find something, okay?
Yes, this did happen recently. Work on the Cercanias train station has slowed (or stopped?) while government officials decide what should be done now, since the church is, of course, quite a find and worthy of preservation.
Hope this helps.
Troy
Posted by: Troy at August 4, 2006 06:38 PM
wow. i can think of about 5 smart things to say about delays in construction in madrid, but for once this is a decent reason, so i'll try to keep them to myself.
Posted by: kelly Wills at August 5, 2006 04:37 PM
Hi all. The "other" Kelly here.
Thanks for this sharp piece of writing, Troy. Well, I suppose I should say that after being at the Christian Associates Staff Conference this past week, this was precisely the kind of writing I shouldn't have read because it makes me want to be back in Madrid with you and Heather and Kelly even more than before!
Alas, patience is not my virtue. Maybe it's better I'm not the one standing around at Sol waiting for the construction workers to do something!
Hope you're doing well!
Posted by: kelly crull at August 5, 2006 07:43 PM